March

This month has once again been more of a working month with the odd trip out here and there at weekends when Dani has days off. We love pretty much everything here and thought: why not write a few bits about the every day things which make us happy, amuse us, annoy us and sometimes down right confuse us! Here it is...

Public Transport Safety 101

Taxis: You hail a taxi and jump in. Often the driver will stop and pick up others on the way if the hailer is going in a vaguely similar direction, so you squish up and fit in the extra bodies (sometimes entire small families).  Still can’t work out at what point to pay, some pay after the journey, some pay when they get in and others just seem to thrust the money into the drivers hands whilst his other hand is on his phone when careering across a road (where I STILL cannot work out who’s right of way it is!?). Sometimes even though you got in first, the driver will go another route (which is clearly the opposite direction to your destination) to drop another passenger off first, this could happen a couple of times before you finally get to where you are going! But, you pay for per seat and for 30p to pretty much anywhere in Masaya you can’t really complain! It is however, always entertaining to ask a taxi driver for a price for a destination before we get in (as they often attempt to dupe foreigners!) Once quoted a specific price and sat in the taxi the driver will ask “where are you going again?!”

Buses: Simple concept that I’m pretty sure the Guinness book of records should be made aware of: cram in everyone and anyone where ever and when ever you can – the bus conductors have an incredible perception of capacity! The smaller “micro” buses, like a small mini bus that have 16 seats, usually fit around 25 in and the conductors constantly hang out of the window shouting the names of destinations at lightening speed! “MasayaMasayaManaguaMasayaManagua Masayaaaaaaa!  Took a while to grasp hearing the names they are so fast. And when it is full – they convince people at the next bus stops that there is room, often luring one or two to cram in further. Again though, a 2 hour bus journey half way across the country for around £1 is not bad... It is amazing how some of the buses are missing a large proportion of the floor in parts (Dani tells me she got on a bus before Christmas which had a precariously made paper thin rusting metal floor – BUT worry not because it had banging new speakers complete with loud reggaeton music and plenty of signs declaring, to our relief, that “Jesus had blessed this bus” we certainly hoped so!)

There appears to be little governance with public transport though: the only evidence are a few people dotted about in orange jackets in the bus stations who check the correct number of people are on the micro buses and to ensure no one is hanging out of the door/window shouting for more spaces to be filled – this is easily overcome. Either, the driver just ignores them and drives by winding up their tinted windows so they can’t see in OR the bus leaves at ‘legal’ capacity and just picks more people up on its way out! Either way, the sardine concept and shouting out appears to prevail.

Oh yes... and all buses, taxis, cars and motorbikes fill up at the petrol station with their engines running throughout... I know we don’t do that in the UK but I’m pretty sure this is dangerous for one reason or another. Anyone?

Shops: No such thing as queuing in most places. Bustling and pushing with no sense of who was first. Amazingly when being served in busy shops on a few occasions the checkout worker will often stop for a minute or two to answer a call or text someone back. Customer service is VERY different than the UK is perhaps used to!

But the best bit about it all... no one bats an eye lid, no one complains or says a bad word as no one even notices, it is simply part of a much more relaxed way of life. I think perhaps an outlook in which we could learn from in our usually busy, perfectly planned and timely executed daily schedules.

You also get very personal relationships with people who provide services and goods on a regular basis. You know and trust well your barber, local farmer, bread maker, local molino, fabric maker, doctor etc, there is a real sense of community.

Highlights from the last month include:

Finding a SUBWAY: quite possibly the most exciting “food moment” to date!

Finding a book shop with a whole section of various books in English: I have started reading a few classics which I missed out on at school, literature on climate change and some children’s books in Spanish (in hope to improve my reading and writing!) Dani has been reading several Spanish books and was disappointed to find out that the well known Nicaraguan author of one of the books she was reading was at the same book shop for a signing the night before!

Living with nature generally!

We recently removed one MUCH bigger than this!

Meet 'Batty' our new resident - unfortunately due to health reasons we spent an afternoon waving a broom at him until he found another home!

Going to the Taekwondo ITF Central American Championships: We didn’t compete but went along for the day where we watched the competitors whom were mostly from Nicaragua and a few from Costa Rica too! The kids were of a very good standard – fast legs, flexible kicks and not afraid to get ‘stuck in’! The adults had some very impressive black belts in the final rounds too!  Upon buying t-shirts as a souvenir we asked who organised the event, before we knew it the t-shirt guy had fetched to meet us the Master VII Degree who invited us to train at his ITF club right here in Masaya. Fantastic!

For the TKDers out there: Look familiar? One of the rings at the competetion

We started training a couple of weeks ago and let’s just say that the last time I sweated that much was a UK squad session in the middle of summer! The Master actually fetched a mop half way through the lesson where he attended to the slippery puddle on the floor where we had been training! The style of TKD is very similar with some slight variations on technique (which I’m sure we will have fun discussing in the pub after a training session once back in the UK).  There is a LOT of stretching and kicking and fewer patterns and the instruction is something we simply wouldn’t allow here, i.e. the instructor hitting children with the kicking paddles to ‘encourage them’, un-sheathing a knife he keeps nearby to again ‘encourage’ students to perform more efficiently! Oh and generally turning-kicking the students.  Old school and fantastic! Oh and Mr Crisp (and anyone else who has had this debate!)... you will be pleased to hear that they pronounce Eui Am “we am” and not “U am” ... I will say nothing more!

Washing our doboks ready for training

The Laguna de Apoyo (again): this really is a gorgeous place, this time we took a packed lunch and read our books in the sun, relaxed, had a dip and sun bathed on the floating wooden platforms 30 feet out into the lagoon and took kayaks out into the water – a well needed rest!

The day that awful earthquake and tsunami hit Japan we had a number of personal tsunami warnings: the first was from Dani’s step mum very early in the morning.. “I don’t want you to worry, but there might be a tsunami heading your way” and my Dad, rather bluntly, “Tsunami heading your way, 6 hours from now”... thanks Dad! The whole Pacific coast was put on high alert, with whole towns evacuated. It was incredible how many bikini clad (and rather stupid) foreigners were shown on Nicaraguan TV being marched off beaches by officials on the Pacific Coast after ignoring initial warnings.  Thankfully the tsunami was hardly noticed at all in Nicaragua....

Our thoughts are with those who have been affected by the catastrophe in Japan.

Upcoming plans

TOP RIGHT - Destination ... The RAAN

We’re going “off grid” for 2 weeks to the RAAN (Region Autonoma Atlantico Norte -  the North Atlantic Autonomous Region) of Nicaragua, on a trip with the Energy Ministry to look at several renewable energy projects in isolated communities.  This part of the country is dominated by 20,000km2 of protected rainforest (apparently the largest north of the Amazon), is home to Mayangna and Miskito populations, is where rivers are more common than roads, communications are extremely limited, and where, according to my lonely planet guide, “cocaine dollars” have done a great deal to fill the development gap.  We’re really excited about seeing the “other side” of Nicaragua – learning about another culture, and of course how they are getting on with solar energy.  Will post some photos and an update soon!

Solar panel installation in one of the communities Dani is working with

Some shout outs

Thank you everyone for your emails and facebook messages – keep them coming, we like to hear all the news / gossip! We’re both missing the oddest of things at the moment: like carpet under our feet and cold weather. On the up side it is very easy to give certain things up for Lent: Dani has given up hot showers and proper cups of tea! I have given up Xbox! (The PS2s in the local gaming shop don’t count!)

Unit 50 (and now unit 51 as well?!): we are thinking of you working those long (and possibly quite cold!) days in the unit packing, sorting, sifting, boxing, categorizing, labelling and moving everything ready for the big day!

Loading day: we will be thinking of you all and wishing you good weather for the big day! :)

Laguna De Masaya - just a 10 minute walk from our house

A long-awaited update (Jan - Feb)

Apologies to our long neglected blog! It has been a whole month since we last updated and how quickly it has passed already!  This month has been our working month!  I have really been getting into my research – arranging transport, visits, carrying out questionnaires, interviews, focus groups and perhaps being slightly stressed about the fact that one third of my time in Nicaragua has already passed.  All the while I feel I’m living a double life – week days getting to grips with people living in extremely difficult conditions in my project communities....and when I get a day off taking advantage of being in a beautiful country half way across the world – seeing the Granadas, the Leons, the tourist havens.... They really are worlds apart.  Matt has been busy settling in, arranging his best-friend’s stag do remotely, collecting resources for the many projects he’s working on and learning Spanish. 

On the field:

Getting to some interviewees is more difficult than others!...

I have been getting to know 2 off grid communities or comarcas, La Quebradita and Papayal, a 1½ hour very dusty and bumpy ride from Masaya.  The two comarcas are highly isolated and fragile communities, it really is difficult coming to terms with the conditions that people there cope with everyday.  One is tied up in a land conflict, where the landowner is trying to scare families off the land, in the second they’re waiting for land titles, but both lack all basic services, including drinking water, latrines, a nearby health centre, electricity and adequate housing.  Ironically private power lines pass directly overhead the houses, but are used exclusively to pump the many private wells that irrigate the surrounding rice fields.  I’m interested in getting to know these communities because this will be the site of a new solar project in the coming month.... Most of the inhabitants have lived their whole lives without electricity, so this will be an enormous change for those who become involved in the project.

Dinner in La Quebradita

I’m getting to know individual members and their stories, it’s nice to be welcomed so warmly into people’s lives.  The women in Papayal are particularly warm towards me – they tell me that they are happy that someone is taking an interest in their lives.  It struck me how life here is so fragile...one of the ladies helping me out, Doña Prudencia, told me how recently her 2 month old grandson was taken ill and then died suddenly.  Living in such an isolated, disconnected community means getting to hospital quickly is just not possible. 

Over the coming months I hope to be able to get to grips with the impacts and changes that electricity brings.

On learning Spanish in Monimbó:

Matt, or Mateo or Mateito (‘little Matt’) as he is now known locally has been busy learning Spanish – I’m very impressed at how well he is doing! 3 weeks with a local teacher I swear his Spanish is better than mine was at A-level...I’ve been testing him on vocab....which at times has me in stitches:

Dani: Matt, what is “ant” in Spanish?

Matt: oreja?

Dani: no, that is ear

Matt: ortega?

Dani: no, that is the President

Matt: hormiga?

Dani: correct.

The President of the Nicaraguan Republic is now known as “Comandante Daniel Hormiga” in our very pro-FSLN lodgings.

On more trips across Nicaragua:

The most exciting/random day goes to a trip we took to Leon.  Leon is a beautiful colonial city in the north-west of Nicaragua, supposedly set in the most volcanic terrain in the whole world!! Matt and I headed there early in the morning so that I could interview the boss of a solar panel company... On the way our bus crashed and then half way through my interview, there was an earthquake measuring 5.1 on the Richter scale!! Fortunately no body/where in Nicaragua was damaged, but it was quite frightening nonetheless, (but Matt was outside in the park and hardly noticed: he was looking around afterward for the culprit he thought was shaking his bench!).  After a rather traumatic start to the day, we explored Leon: viewed what is considered the finest collection of art in Central America, ate raspado (ice mixed with sugary syrup...mmmm), got sunburnt looking at a mural which depicts Nicaragua’s troubled history, then climbed to the top of Central America’s largest cathedral, taking in the views... which are stunning!

For the Black Ops fans - Matt going 'prone' in volcanic terrain

As well as all of this, two weeks ago we managed a fleeting visit to Costa Rica for a visa run – after half a day travel, a massive 3 hour queue, narrowing avoiding bandits blagging that our visa run was illegal and that they could get us through via a “friend” for a “fee” ... 4 stamps later, we’ve finally got another 90 day stay in Nicaragua!

This last week we have both been ill and a little home sick.  Monday to Thursday of this week have been occupied with visits to the family doctor, Dr Picado (should we be concerned that his surname translates as drunk?!), who prescribed us a pharmacy of medicines, and an intravenous pain reliever to cure our ailments!  My experience so far suggests that Nicaraguans are on the side of hypochondria – perhaps why every visit to the pharmacy is like battling with a 4 deep bar queue on a busy FND?  The slightest ailment – be sure that there is an injection or tablet to be taken!

All better now though... and so back to work. We are both looking forward very much to our visitors Albo and Alex to the Bay Islands in Honduras come April time and hopefully Simon at the end of March... and what seems like a very long time away: June when Jenny (Mum) and Jenni come out to visit the CHTrust projects.



San Juan Del Sur

Since the moment Matt had arrived the plan was to go to the beach to spend a few days chilling out, forgetting about research, snow, and cancelled flights.  San Juan del Sur is about 100km south west of Masaya, located on the Pacific coast and is a gringo surfer hideout, with a gorgeous bay... It is stunning!  (even if slightly overun with surf shops and Spanish schools for long-haired Americans).  Interesting events during the stay: waking up at 4am thinking our hotel room was being broken into, instead to find a disoriented bat who had wiggled its way in through the window!

On our second night: heading out to turtle watch!  We tagged along on a tour visiting el Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor, which is about 20km south of San Juan right on the Costa Rican border.  This is one of the main places where endangered olive ridley and leatherback turtles come to lay their eggs - between July and January every year flotillas of hundreds of thousands arrive here!  We weren't disappointed....we saw 5 olive ridleys digging holes to deposit their 120 eggs each, then carefully burying and compacting the sand before heading back off to the sea.... The best bit however was finding baby turtles on the sand making their first dangerous journey to the ocean.

Did you know?

Olive ridleys return to the exact beach where they were born to lay their eggs.

The live up to 80-100 years!

Out of every 1000 eggs laid, only one turtle makes it to full maturity, due to the gazillion predators (crabs, birds and egg poachers).

Around 15 soldiers guard this reserve at night, to deter the egg poachers.  It was a little eerie when our guide kept flashing his torch into the forest bordering the beach. He was checking for poachers and apparently there had been some at one of the turtle holes we were watching just a few minutes before we had arrived... A little bit spooky in the dark!

It was an absolutely incredible evening made even more magical by the clearest night sky we had ever seen! It proved difficult for anyone to make out the constellations due to all of the other stars in the sky around them.  All in all an unforgettable night.

PS - the beach was brilliant! Check out Matt about to get destroyed by enormous waves!

New Year in Masaya

New Years Eve

Meet Rosita...

This is the House Parrot at DD's called Rosita. A very intelligent bird who has managed to learn the names of all residents during her 12 year life and will sporadically shout random names (including the dogs' names!) when it is hungry.  In the photo is Chalio (D.D's oldest son) and Rosita... Let's step forward a few moments in time just after this photo was taken...

"Oh my, what a pretty tail" said Dani to Rosita ... We very quickly discovered that when the parrot flays out the feathers in her tail, she is actually showing us how cross or brava she is, rather than showing off her colourful behind.  An impressive 2 metre lightning charge, a yelping Dani and one bleeding foot later, we realise that Rosita is not distracted by flattery when flip-flopped bare feet are on show.

New Year evening: What can we say - it was (as Nicaraguan tradition it now appears) very noisy!!! The streets were filled with the smell of small explosives and so much smoke from all the fireworks that the visibility in the streets of the Masaya was  ... well, see photo.  

We spent the evening with some new friends - Luz and Jimmy.  Luz invited us to her home for a meal which consisted of buñuelos (a mixture of fried yuca with cheese, dipped in honey) and baho (a typical Nicaraguan stew made of beef, yuca, tomatoes and onion). Luz's dad was very welcoming with handshakes and smiles all round. He seemed to have enjoyed a bit too much of the local beer Toña that day: he told us many times how much he adored his grandchildren, followed in the next breath - would we like to take any of them?! The straight face he asked us with was at first a concern, but he always laughed at the "we have no room in our suitcase" response.  We went outside at midnight to watch everyone in the streets celebrating.

Safety rules for Nicaraguan fireworks: there appears to be no rules, so based on what we saw I decided to write down what I can only presume they could be:

1) If you get hurt it's your own fault

2) Light it and run (or don't run... to hold it your hand and simply let go last minute is fine - if you laugh and shout a lot you always seem to evade injury)

3) Pretend to throw lit fireworks at the foreigners (and laugh when the 'cheles' start running)

4) No fuse is too short (we saw several fuses so short the firework exploded less than a second after being lit)

 5) Always go back to a lit firework to ensure you have really ignited every part of it. If no explosives remain then light the outer casing and then the packaging.

6) When (not IF) a firework hits a dog, laugh loudly and shout a bit more. (Don't worry, no dogs were harmed from what we witnessed, but it ran pretty damn fast)

7) No child is too young or too small to let off explosives (even the smallest, youngest most innocent looking children were indeed vicious pyromaniacs)

New Years day

I awoke New Years day to Dani calling me out of bed just before 8am to "Quick Matt, get up! A lizard!" after several attempts at rubbing my eyes and putting on my glasses to our delight there was a blurry lizard slowly coming into focus. It was around 2 foot long working its way slowly around a branch in our garden being watched by Dani and Chalio. 'Eduardo' is a daily visitor, he is a cautious one and scuttles quickly when spooked, in the 10 minutes it took to get close enough to take his portrait we had a bond (until a bang from a random firework went off sending him into the garden and up another tree! and yes... the fireworks were, though sporadic and less common, STILL going off!)

Later, Isaac, his girlfriend Jasmina, Dani and I spent the best part of New Years Day exploring the sights of Volcan Masaya. We got a taxi up to the crater's edge and were able to see right into the active crater (apparently it is the most heavily venting volcano in the country...but you can literally drive into it - excellent example of Nicaraguan H&S).  You're only supposed to spend 20 minutes at the viewing point - the sulphurous gases are strong! We were feeling the effects after just a few minutes, trying to gulp in the air when the wind blew in the opposite direction...

Chalio told us that on some days you can actually see the lava bubbling below deep in the crater, we didn't see any lava but did see (and smell) a constant and steady stream of gas. We stood in the shadow of a replica 20ft cross (originally placed by the Spanish priest, Bobadilla, given that the Spaniards thought this place was the gate to hell!).....Fantastic views as you can see - the camera simply can't do them justice though.

From the other side of the reserva you can see two other volcanoes, 3 lakes (including the laguna de la playa in the background of our photo) and for about 30km in most directions. On our climb up we were apprehensive about the hike and the narrow stony walkway. The winds were strong and as you know, Dani's balance has not always been the best! But we helped each other up a steep hill with unsteady footholdings in loose rock to stop every so often to take in the views! At one point we had to turn back a few meters as the most amazing thing happened. As we had just started off walking up the edge of the larger crater a few small objects started hitting me in the wind, but I didn't really take notice (as there are always bugs and bits flying around in Nicaragua). Dani had stopped and all she shouted was "bees!"... as we both looked up there were literally hundreds, maybe a thousand bees flying passed with the strong winds. All in one group around 50 foot long! Isaac said that they were emigrating at this time of year and that's why there were so many: it was a magical sight! We reached the top (see sunny photo - which looks like a very fake kind of post card! promise you it's real...) and stopped to take in the view before our one hour trek back down to the entrance. Our feet still ached the next day.

We went straight from the volcano to Catarina for a festival. It promised dancing, locals dressed up in various costumes and outfits, food stalls, street vendors and horse riding activities. If it weren't for the rain we would have seen a lot more too: though the rain did bring a fantastic view of the lagoon as the clouds lifted (see photo).

Leaving Catarina we saw the local style of brightly coloured pottery, animal statues along the side of the roads, an abundance of bird cages for sale and plastic Jesus' all mixed in with some left over Christmas decorations. Very eclectic and very beautiful! What a great new years day we had! (Part of this blog was just for you Dave n Laura: we are sure you can work out which bit).

Matts arrival and first blog

Before my arrival in Nicaragua, there was the journey over. The first planned flight on the 22nd was cancelled due to the snow at Heathrow and so spent a good few hours on the phone to American Airlines. I eventually got through and within about 20mins had sorted out the next available flight, which was on boxing day 9:45am. To ensure I got there in time my dad offered to drop me off early hours... We left on xmas day just after midnight and headed for Heathrow. After waiting around 6 hours in the quietest I have ever seen an airport I booked in and dropped off my baggage - making use of my time to read and not fall asleep in case I missed a second flight! Two flights and a 6 hour stop over later (with lots of leg room might I add: I was lucky enough to have an emergency exit seat both flights) After almost 30hours travelling I was met by a smiley Dani at the window of baggage claim :) She didn't quite knock me off my feet - but were both very happy to see each other after almost 2 months apart.

It was around 8:30pm and we had a dark taxi journey from Managua airport to its smaller neighbour of Masaya. I met some of the family who were warm and welcoming and then zonked out completely until the early hours.

Since then we've pretty much tried to make the most of each day so far, Dani having a couple of days off to show me the sights she is now so familiar with. I have looked around Masaya: the old market, several churches, the park, the malecon (fantastic views of the lagoon and volcano) and to the "monkey hut" which sits nicely on the edge of another lagoon, La Laguna De Apoyo, with a relaxing day of sunbathing, catching up, reading and an incredible panoramic view of the water and tree covered hills of the outer edge of the crater (see earlier blog for photos) We went to Granada today and saw the town square, churches, museum, colourful doorways and houses, a gorgeous cafe and some of the most colourful paintings and prints at an Art workshop.

The thing that has struck me most about Nicaragua is its beauty and colour, it has just finished its rainy season so I think everything has just finished blooming. Dani was certainly right about the noise and ear plugs were a very good idea! No pig (RIP) but a TV, gramophone, radio, dogs barking, cockerels crowing, birds chirping, insects buzzing, people shouting and sporadic fireworks all seem to compete for the loudest racket it appears! We must also check it is ok to get a family tree up on the blog - if nothing else, at least so that I understand who is who!? Dani appears to have it pretty sussed out but there is a lot to keep up with. Last count Donya Dorcas added up to around 15 grandchildren.

We have been invited over to a friend's house on New Years Eve to enjoy some good food, a little drink and maybe some games which we are looking forward to. I am also excited to start the projects for one of the charity’s we are working with and have a Tour of a Yuka Plant factory soon to start filming and making resources.

We plan to take a few days away to a beach soon - so watch this space for some very sunny and sandy jealous making photos! :)

Update from Masaya

I know it has been a little while since I last updated the blog – my apologies! It has been manic here the last couple of weeks.....and I think I’m now paying for it as I recover from a horrible tropical virus thing!

I am now well established in Masayan society, known locally as la chela or chelita (blondey, white skinned woman)... The automatic defence of “I don’t understand Spanish” to anyone you don’t like the look of no longer works....everyone seems to know that I live with D.D and Isaac!  I’ve gone completely cold turkey on Yorkshire tea (from 8 cups daily to 0 in 6 weeks flat must be a record?), survive mainly on rice and beans, have been bitten to death by mosquitoes (they do not respect the DEET, mosquito net or long sleeved clothes – even if I tuck my t-shirts into my knickers!), experienced a week of high fever temperatures and seen a variety of nasty looking insects (see photos below)..... I would say I was nearly accustomed to life in Nicaragua! I make it sound much worse than it is!  I actually like it here very much :)

You will be sad to hear that poor Juanito was loaded onto a rather ominous looking truck last week.....At least I can sleep peacefully and not be woken by his early morning grunts? Wrong!  They have been simply replaced by the bulla of Masaya buzzing in readiness for Christmas – which means fireworks at all hours (any day of the week), singing and more marching bands!  This week celebrated the Purisima where they parade statues of the Virgin Mary around the streets and people go out to sing and greet her (and I think there are lots of sweets involved!)....Basically any festival – saint days (any religion), fiestas, whatever, people will throw fireworks and celebrate!

On the research front things are going ok.... I have spent the last few weeks getting to know the renewable energy and electricity sector in Nicaragua (much more exciting than it sounds!), which has meant lots of visits to the capital city (Managua).  Generally I have had no trouble speaking to high profile people – I can email and usually be seen the following day...Would this happen in the UK?! I think not!  It is all so informal here...I was half way through an interview at the Ministry of Energy the other day, when someone from the office interrupted us to offer us some birthday cake.  I ended up at a mid afternoon office party at the Ministry, surrounded by energy policy makers, eating chocolate cake and crisps, very civilised! 

On the language front....my Spanish has improved no end!  From struggling with rusty Spanglish in the first few weeks to finding that I can speak wellish once again, and have picked up the local habit of not finishing my words (good luck understanding when you get here Matt!).  Speaking to the family is one thing...talking to energy specialists about policy is another....but speaking to people in the countryside about their energy habits (people who may have lived their entire lives without electricity) is quite another....  The challenges of development fieldwork eh?!

Last weekend was lovely, as I had a visitor from London (well...a Londoner staying in Guatemala).  Julia is also working on energy issues in Central America for her PhD!  It was great to catch up and to speak English!!  We had a rather indulgent touristy weekend – we sunbathed and swam at the Laguna de Apoyo (which was absolute paradise!) and visited the nearby colonial city of Granada (where we found a waffle house and cups of tea).  Below are some photos...I know the sunshine must be quite alien to most of you reading this currently (I’ve heard that you might have had a bit of snow?!)

El Toro Venado and San Jeronimo

As I mentioned in my last post, Masaya is famed for being the home of Nicaraguan folklore.  In Monimbó on the third Sunday in November they celebrate the festival of “El Toro Venado”.  The day started in next door’s garden, where one of the lads was 30ft up a tree cutting down coconuts to decorate their float for the parade...  It is tradition that families enter into the parade every year and have a special name – next door are known as the conejos (rabbits). From what I can tell, the parade is an opportunity for people to express their views about current issues, mock politicians and for the men – go out in drag!  The butt of most jokes was Costa Rica (currently in a heated border dispute with Nicaragua and tensions are running high!)... here are some highlights from the parade....

Cutting down coconuts....

The conejos            

3 for the price of 1 on Costa Rican (wo)men 

Later that day we went to see some of the festivities of San Jeronimo – the patron saint of Masaya.  Officially this festival lasts just 8 days (beginning September 30^th), but writing at the end of November, I’m still being kept awake by marching bands and fireworks until the early hours!  This festival involves dancing, more drag queens, fireworks and marimbas.  I went along with D.D’s grandson to see one of his friends dancing – Christian (pictured below), the rather buxom brunette with fan!  People invite groups to perform traditional dances in their homes and it seems that the whole neighbourhood then turns up to watch.  Apparently the dance groups are mostly men... The dress is colonial and the masks are typical of the festivals here in Masaya.  The costumes are very heavy and they also wear heels – apparently Christian was dancing for 12 hours on Sunday!