Update from Masaya

I know it has been a little while since I last updated the blog – my apologies! It has been manic here the last couple of weeks.....and I think I’m now paying for it as I recover from a horrible tropical virus thing!

I am now well established in Masayan society, known locally as la chela or chelita (blondey, white skinned woman)... The automatic defence of “I don’t understand Spanish” to anyone you don’t like the look of no longer works....everyone seems to know that I live with D.D and Isaac!  I’ve gone completely cold turkey on Yorkshire tea (from 8 cups daily to 0 in 6 weeks flat must be a record?), survive mainly on rice and beans, have been bitten to death by mosquitoes (they do not respect the DEET, mosquito net or long sleeved clothes – even if I tuck my t-shirts into my knickers!), experienced a week of high fever temperatures and seen a variety of nasty looking insects (see photos below)..... I would say I was nearly accustomed to life in Nicaragua! I make it sound much worse than it is!  I actually like it here very much :)

You will be sad to hear that poor Juanito was loaded onto a rather ominous looking truck last week.....At least I can sleep peacefully and not be woken by his early morning grunts? Wrong!  They have been simply replaced by the bulla of Masaya buzzing in readiness for Christmas – which means fireworks at all hours (any day of the week), singing and more marching bands!  This week celebrated the Purisima where they parade statues of the Virgin Mary around the streets and people go out to sing and greet her (and I think there are lots of sweets involved!)....Basically any festival – saint days (any religion), fiestas, whatever, people will throw fireworks and celebrate!

On the research front things are going ok.... I have spent the last few weeks getting to know the renewable energy and electricity sector in Nicaragua (much more exciting than it sounds!), which has meant lots of visits to the capital city (Managua).  Generally I have had no trouble speaking to high profile people – I can email and usually be seen the following day...Would this happen in the UK?! I think not!  It is all so informal here...I was half way through an interview at the Ministry of Energy the other day, when someone from the office interrupted us to offer us some birthday cake.  I ended up at a mid afternoon office party at the Ministry, surrounded by energy policy makers, eating chocolate cake and crisps, very civilised! 

On the language front....my Spanish has improved no end!  From struggling with rusty Spanglish in the first few weeks to finding that I can speak wellish once again, and have picked up the local habit of not finishing my words (good luck understanding when you get here Matt!).  Speaking to the family is one thing...talking to energy specialists about policy is another....but speaking to people in the countryside about their energy habits (people who may have lived their entire lives without electricity) is quite another....  The challenges of development fieldwork eh?!

Last weekend was lovely, as I had a visitor from London (well...a Londoner staying in Guatemala).  Julia is also working on energy issues in Central America for her PhD!  It was great to catch up and to speak English!!  We had a rather indulgent touristy weekend – we sunbathed and swam at the Laguna de Apoyo (which was absolute paradise!) and visited the nearby colonial city of Granada (where we found a waffle house and cups of tea).  Below are some photos...I know the sunshine must be quite alien to most of you reading this currently (I’ve heard that you might have had a bit of snow?!)