Matts arrival and first blog

Before my arrival in Nicaragua, there was the journey over. The first planned flight on the 22nd was cancelled due to the snow at Heathrow and so spent a good few hours on the phone to American Airlines. I eventually got through and within about 20mins had sorted out the next available flight, which was on boxing day 9:45am. To ensure I got there in time my dad offered to drop me off early hours... We left on xmas day just after midnight and headed for Heathrow. After waiting around 6 hours in the quietest I have ever seen an airport I booked in and dropped off my baggage - making use of my time to read and not fall asleep in case I missed a second flight! Two flights and a 6 hour stop over later (with lots of leg room might I add: I was lucky enough to have an emergency exit seat both flights) After almost 30hours travelling I was met by a smiley Dani at the window of baggage claim :) She didn't quite knock me off my feet - but were both very happy to see each other after almost 2 months apart.

It was around 8:30pm and we had a dark taxi journey from Managua airport to its smaller neighbour of Masaya. I met some of the family who were warm and welcoming and then zonked out completely until the early hours.

Since then we've pretty much tried to make the most of each day so far, Dani having a couple of days off to show me the sights she is now so familiar with. I have looked around Masaya: the old market, several churches, the park, the malecon (fantastic views of the lagoon and volcano) and to the "monkey hut" which sits nicely on the edge of another lagoon, La Laguna De Apoyo, with a relaxing day of sunbathing, catching up, reading and an incredible panoramic view of the water and tree covered hills of the outer edge of the crater (see earlier blog for photos) We went to Granada today and saw the town square, churches, museum, colourful doorways and houses, a gorgeous cafe and some of the most colourful paintings and prints at an Art workshop.

The thing that has struck me most about Nicaragua is its beauty and colour, it has just finished its rainy season so I think everything has just finished blooming. Dani was certainly right about the noise and ear plugs were a very good idea! No pig (RIP) but a TV, gramophone, radio, dogs barking, cockerels crowing, birds chirping, insects buzzing, people shouting and sporadic fireworks all seem to compete for the loudest racket it appears! We must also check it is ok to get a family tree up on the blog - if nothing else, at least so that I understand who is who!? Dani appears to have it pretty sussed out but there is a lot to keep up with. Last count Donya Dorcas added up to around 15 grandchildren.

We have been invited over to a friend's house on New Years Eve to enjoy some good food, a little drink and maybe some games which we are looking forward to. I am also excited to start the projects for one of the charity’s we are working with and have a Tour of a Yuka Plant factory soon to start filming and making resources.

We plan to take a few days away to a beach soon - so watch this space for some very sunny and sandy jealous making photos! :)

Update from Masaya

I know it has been a little while since I last updated the blog – my apologies! It has been manic here the last couple of weeks.....and I think I’m now paying for it as I recover from a horrible tropical virus thing!

I am now well established in Masayan society, known locally as la chela or chelita (blondey, white skinned woman)... The automatic defence of “I don’t understand Spanish” to anyone you don’t like the look of no longer works....everyone seems to know that I live with D.D and Isaac!  I’ve gone completely cold turkey on Yorkshire tea (from 8 cups daily to 0 in 6 weeks flat must be a record?), survive mainly on rice and beans, have been bitten to death by mosquitoes (they do not respect the DEET, mosquito net or long sleeved clothes – even if I tuck my t-shirts into my knickers!), experienced a week of high fever temperatures and seen a variety of nasty looking insects (see photos below)..... I would say I was nearly accustomed to life in Nicaragua! I make it sound much worse than it is!  I actually like it here very much :)

You will be sad to hear that poor Juanito was loaded onto a rather ominous looking truck last week.....At least I can sleep peacefully and not be woken by his early morning grunts? Wrong!  They have been simply replaced by the bulla of Masaya buzzing in readiness for Christmas – which means fireworks at all hours (any day of the week), singing and more marching bands!  This week celebrated the Purisima where they parade statues of the Virgin Mary around the streets and people go out to sing and greet her (and I think there are lots of sweets involved!)....Basically any festival – saint days (any religion), fiestas, whatever, people will throw fireworks and celebrate!

On the research front things are going ok.... I have spent the last few weeks getting to know the renewable energy and electricity sector in Nicaragua (much more exciting than it sounds!), which has meant lots of visits to the capital city (Managua).  Generally I have had no trouble speaking to high profile people – I can email and usually be seen the following day...Would this happen in the UK?! I think not!  It is all so informal here...I was half way through an interview at the Ministry of Energy the other day, when someone from the office interrupted us to offer us some birthday cake.  I ended up at a mid afternoon office party at the Ministry, surrounded by energy policy makers, eating chocolate cake and crisps, very civilised! 

On the language front....my Spanish has improved no end!  From struggling with rusty Spanglish in the first few weeks to finding that I can speak wellish once again, and have picked up the local habit of not finishing my words (good luck understanding when you get here Matt!).  Speaking to the family is one thing...talking to energy specialists about policy is another....but speaking to people in the countryside about their energy habits (people who may have lived their entire lives without electricity) is quite another....  The challenges of development fieldwork eh?!

Last weekend was lovely, as I had a visitor from London (well...a Londoner staying in Guatemala).  Julia is also working on energy issues in Central America for her PhD!  It was great to catch up and to speak English!!  We had a rather indulgent touristy weekend – we sunbathed and swam at the Laguna de Apoyo (which was absolute paradise!) and visited the nearby colonial city of Granada (where we found a waffle house and cups of tea).  Below are some photos...I know the sunshine must be quite alien to most of you reading this currently (I’ve heard that you might have had a bit of snow?!)