Matts arrival and first blog

Before my arrival in Nicaragua, there was the journey over. The first planned flight on the 22nd was cancelled due to the snow at Heathrow and so spent a good few hours on the phone to American Airlines. I eventually got through and within about 20mins had sorted out the next available flight, which was on boxing day 9:45am. To ensure I got there in time my dad offered to drop me off early hours... We left on xmas day just after midnight and headed for Heathrow. After waiting around 6 hours in the quietest I have ever seen an airport I booked in and dropped off my baggage - making use of my time to read and not fall asleep in case I missed a second flight! Two flights and a 6 hour stop over later (with lots of leg room might I add: I was lucky enough to have an emergency exit seat both flights) After almost 30hours travelling I was met by a smiley Dani at the window of baggage claim :) She didn't quite knock me off my feet - but were both very happy to see each other after almost 2 months apart.

It was around 8:30pm and we had a dark taxi journey from Managua airport to its smaller neighbour of Masaya. I met some of the family who were warm and welcoming and then zonked out completely until the early hours.

Since then we've pretty much tried to make the most of each day so far, Dani having a couple of days off to show me the sights she is now so familiar with. I have looked around Masaya: the old market, several churches, the park, the malecon (fantastic views of the lagoon and volcano) and to the "monkey hut" which sits nicely on the edge of another lagoon, La Laguna De Apoyo, with a relaxing day of sunbathing, catching up, reading and an incredible panoramic view of the water and tree covered hills of the outer edge of the crater (see earlier blog for photos) We went to Granada today and saw the town square, churches, museum, colourful doorways and houses, a gorgeous cafe and some of the most colourful paintings and prints at an Art workshop.

The thing that has struck me most about Nicaragua is its beauty and colour, it has just finished its rainy season so I think everything has just finished blooming. Dani was certainly right about the noise and ear plugs were a very good idea! No pig (RIP) but a TV, gramophone, radio, dogs barking, cockerels crowing, birds chirping, insects buzzing, people shouting and sporadic fireworks all seem to compete for the loudest racket it appears! We must also check it is ok to get a family tree up on the blog - if nothing else, at least so that I understand who is who!? Dani appears to have it pretty sussed out but there is a lot to keep up with. Last count Donya Dorcas added up to around 15 grandchildren.

We have been invited over to a friend's house on New Years Eve to enjoy some good food, a little drink and maybe some games which we are looking forward to. I am also excited to start the projects for one of the charity’s we are working with and have a Tour of a Yuka Plant factory soon to start filming and making resources.

We plan to take a few days away to a beach soon - so watch this space for some very sunny and sandy jealous making photos! :)

Update from Masaya

I know it has been a little while since I last updated the blog – my apologies! It has been manic here the last couple of weeks.....and I think I’m now paying for it as I recover from a horrible tropical virus thing!

I am now well established in Masayan society, known locally as la chela or chelita (blondey, white skinned woman)... The automatic defence of “I don’t understand Spanish” to anyone you don’t like the look of no longer works....everyone seems to know that I live with D.D and Isaac!  I’ve gone completely cold turkey on Yorkshire tea (from 8 cups daily to 0 in 6 weeks flat must be a record?), survive mainly on rice and beans, have been bitten to death by mosquitoes (they do not respect the DEET, mosquito net or long sleeved clothes – even if I tuck my t-shirts into my knickers!), experienced a week of high fever temperatures and seen a variety of nasty looking insects (see photos below)..... I would say I was nearly accustomed to life in Nicaragua! I make it sound much worse than it is!  I actually like it here very much :)

You will be sad to hear that poor Juanito was loaded onto a rather ominous looking truck last week.....At least I can sleep peacefully and not be woken by his early morning grunts? Wrong!  They have been simply replaced by the bulla of Masaya buzzing in readiness for Christmas – which means fireworks at all hours (any day of the week), singing and more marching bands!  This week celebrated the Purisima where they parade statues of the Virgin Mary around the streets and people go out to sing and greet her (and I think there are lots of sweets involved!)....Basically any festival – saint days (any religion), fiestas, whatever, people will throw fireworks and celebrate!

On the research front things are going ok.... I have spent the last few weeks getting to know the renewable energy and electricity sector in Nicaragua (much more exciting than it sounds!), which has meant lots of visits to the capital city (Managua).  Generally I have had no trouble speaking to high profile people – I can email and usually be seen the following day...Would this happen in the UK?! I think not!  It is all so informal here...I was half way through an interview at the Ministry of Energy the other day, when someone from the office interrupted us to offer us some birthday cake.  I ended up at a mid afternoon office party at the Ministry, surrounded by energy policy makers, eating chocolate cake and crisps, very civilised! 

On the language front....my Spanish has improved no end!  From struggling with rusty Spanglish in the first few weeks to finding that I can speak wellish once again, and have picked up the local habit of not finishing my words (good luck understanding when you get here Matt!).  Speaking to the family is one thing...talking to energy specialists about policy is another....but speaking to people in the countryside about their energy habits (people who may have lived their entire lives without electricity) is quite another....  The challenges of development fieldwork eh?!

Last weekend was lovely, as I had a visitor from London (well...a Londoner staying in Guatemala).  Julia is also working on energy issues in Central America for her PhD!  It was great to catch up and to speak English!!  We had a rather indulgent touristy weekend – we sunbathed and swam at the Laguna de Apoyo (which was absolute paradise!) and visited the nearby colonial city of Granada (where we found a waffle house and cups of tea).  Below are some photos...I know the sunshine must be quite alien to most of you reading this currently (I’ve heard that you might have had a bit of snow?!)

El Toro Venado and San Jeronimo

As I mentioned in my last post, Masaya is famed for being the home of Nicaraguan folklore.  In Monimbó on the third Sunday in November they celebrate the festival of “El Toro Venado”.  The day started in next door’s garden, where one of the lads was 30ft up a tree cutting down coconuts to decorate their float for the parade...  It is tradition that families enter into the parade every year and have a special name – next door are known as the conejos (rabbits). From what I can tell, the parade is an opportunity for people to express their views about current issues, mock politicians and for the men – go out in drag!  The butt of most jokes was Costa Rica (currently in a heated border dispute with Nicaragua and tensions are running high!)... here are some highlights from the parade....

Cutting down coconuts....

The conejos            

3 for the price of 1 on Costa Rican (wo)men 

Later that day we went to see some of the festivities of San Jeronimo – the patron saint of Masaya.  Officially this festival lasts just 8 days (beginning September 30^th), but writing at the end of November, I’m still being kept awake by marching bands and fireworks until the early hours!  This festival involves dancing, more drag queens, fireworks and marimbas.  I went along with D.D’s grandson to see one of his friends dancing – Christian (pictured below), the rather buxom brunette with fan!  People invite groups to perform traditional dances in their homes and it seems that the whole neighbourhood then turns up to watch.  Apparently the dance groups are mostly men... The dress is colonial and the masks are typical of the festivals here in Masaya.  The costumes are very heavy and they also wear heels – apparently Christian was dancing for 12 hours on Sunday!

This is Masaya

I think I’ve just about found my feet here , so it’s about time that I tell you a bit about Masaya.  It is known as the “cradle of Nicaraguan folklore” and I’m told that the 1979 revolution also started right here.  The barrio that I’m living in, Monimbó, is famed for its resistance to the dictator’s (Somoza) brutal national guard during the insurrection – locals (including my host family) rose up against the military.  As I get to know the family better, I’m learning more about their painful experience during this time.  Doña Dorcas took me into the garden the other night to show me where she used to hide weapons for the Sandinistas, also sharing stories of how she hid guerrilla fighters!   This is a view from Coyotepe, an old fortress which looks over Masaya, used for detaining (and torturing) political prisoners during the Somoza dictatorship and by the Sandinistas following the revolution.  I went on a tour and heard about the grisly history of this place – many atrocities were committed…

Street view in Monimbó ... About 100 metres from here is the “road on the way to the lagoon”, where I’m staying :)

Not much of the colonial architecture remains in Masaya – the war and the fact that the  city experiences violent tectonic activity at times does not help!  This is the iglesia de San Jerónimo.  This building has been repaired many times…

El parque central, la paroquia

Live, upside down chickens!  Their pick up has a flat and has stopped in the middleof the main street of Masaya!

And finally, for the Geoggers following this blog.  Here is Loughborough bear enjoying the view over the city of Masaya.  Unfortunately his hat is a little worse for wear (he travelled economy in my rucksack), but as you can see, it is still shading him from strong afternoon sun. ..Any suggestions for a name for him are most welcome!

Notes from the field...

As you probably already know, the main reason for us being here is that I (Dani) am researching  for my PhD… The project is about energy poverty in rural Central America and how solar power is being implemented to provide sustainable access to modern energy services (apologies Geographers, you’ve heard this a hundred times!)  The study involves getting to know families that have solar panels, those who don’t and the various organisations  involved in implementing the solar technology…. I’m working with a local NGO called ADIC (Asociación para el Desarrollo Integral Comunitario) and so far have managed to head out on a few visits, speaking to families that have received panels.  It is fascinating to hear their stories!  One family I met the other day hadn’t had electricity for 20 years, and during this time relied completely on candles and oil lamps for light and a car battery for the radio at the weekends.  Can you imagine?  The only issue is that the roads here are a bit awful at the moment due to a particularly heavy rainy season (it’s supposed to finish in November), so for now the best way to get around is by moto.  Picture me perched precariously on the back of a motorbike, clinging on for dear life, whilst Norman (my contact at ADIC) dodges pot holes, puddles, children and various farm animals casually resting in the middle of the road.  Not sure what my department would say (H&S wise), but so far so good.  Here is a picture from Don Enrique and Doña Rosa’s house, I visited this week.  This panel provides them with enough power for three lightbulbs at night and during the day, a few hours of T.V or radio.

The chancho and the garden

Here is a pic of "Juanito" the pig next door who keeps me awake all night… this is especially for you Joanna!

Doña Dorcas told me I´d better take a picture, as poor Juanito is going to be eaten soon!

And whilst I´m here…. I may as well show you some lovely pics from the garden – it´s like a jungle!

 

Clean clothes…

This is me learning how to wash clothes the traditional way. I had a pile of clothes that would perhaps be half a load in the washing machine…. it took me a whole afternoon to wash them by hand! Not many families can afford to buy a washing machine, or the electricity to run it if they could…. Many women wash clothes for a living here…I’m told that the good ones can get through 100 items in a morning! They have much stronger arms than I do….

Another lagoon and meet the family…..

This is another laguna– "la laguna de apoyo" and to the right, the volcán Mombacho, which I´m assured is dormant! This photo is taken from a mirador in Catarina which is one of the "pueblos blancos" just outside of Masaya. This is a volcanic crater lake (apparently 200m deep and 200 centuries old) that you can swim in…it is said to have the cleanest and deepest water in Nicaragua, with supposed healing powers. There are little cabañas spread around steep edges of the crater… I think we will spending many weekends here :)
The view, as you can see, is absolutely breathtaking!

This is a photo of some of my host family by the lagoon – l-r, the wonderful Doña (Mrs) Dorcas, her great-grandaughter Alba Thais and her grandson, Isaac. D.D is amazing! A real character with lots of stories… everyday she makes me eggs for breakfast :) D.D is coming home with us next year…

The Lagoon

In my last post I talked about the street name being “on the way to the lagoon” – well this is the lagoon! And behind it is the Volcan Santiago... it is just a 10 minute walk from the house....  Up until about 5 years ago the lagoon was used by Masayans for swimming and washing clothes.....but today it is rarely used because the water is so polluted... Someone told me that they estimate there is a layer 3-4m thick of plastic in the water! 

Apparently a large serpent lives in the lagoon – according to local folklore, the day that it is killed or dies, all of the water will disappear.  Another famous story describes how the Spanish conquistadores descended into this volcano in their search for gold!

Dani arrives in Masaya....

My new house!

   The garden.....

I arrived in a hot (30 degrees) and sticky Managua on Sunday night in the middle of a storm – I can see why the Foreign Office advises British nationals to fly in during daylight hours! I was welcomed by Doña Dorcas who for the next few months will be my Nicaraguan Mum, and her daughter Edith.

I was taken to my new house and introduced to the family.. It is huge! I think Doña Dorcas must be nearly 80, and she has five children, who have children, who also have children! My new house is just to the south of the city, a large house with an amazing garden....In Nicaragua, they don’t have street names or house numbers - they use reference points and then count the distance in blocks...so my address is something like: Down from the Magdalena Church, the road on the way to the lagoon, one and a half blocks!! This does not make it easy to find your way around if you don’t know where the “old factory” was, or where the “fat lady on that corner” lives!

My first night was very interesting! I don’t think I slept at all for the sound of the pigs grunting in next door’s garden (the largest pig is nicknamed Juanito - or little John - apparently he grunts when he is hungry), Dorcas’ talking parrot, insects buzzing and a symphony of geckos, horses, chickens, and dogs...Matt – you definitely need to bring out some ear plugs...

So far I have been getting to know Masaya...On Tuesday I went out walking with Doña Dorcas – she is quite a character and literally knows everyone here! As soon as we had left the house 2 small children from next door came running out to hold her hands and help walk her down the road......and we must have stopped at least 10 times in the street to talk to people.  November 2^nd is the day of the dead, a public holiday where people go to visit their family graves to tidy, enflorar and sprinkle colourful dust and ribbons on the tombs....I followed Dorcas through the cemetery (she is very agile!), amazed at the number of families there decorating the tombs.  For the rest of the day the town was packed with people selling flowers..

For the tkders following this blog you will be pleased to hear that I have located a club in Masaya!  I went along on Tuesday– it is a fairly small WTF club, training 5 days a week.  It costs 20 c$ (60p) to join and 40 c$ (£1.20) every week to train! I’m hoping to start soon....I was told to bring my trainers – apparently they run to warm up (my favourite!), which I imagine in this heat is awful!

So far it’s been a busy few days! I’m still getting used to the time difference (6 hours), the heat and the different pace of life!  But I am being very well looked after :)

I’m hoping to make it to the lagoon this weekend to see the volcano, so I will post some more photos soon! xxxx

Packing

Packing the night before !!!!
As you can see - the kitchen sink almost went!

Almost all set to go - the next time you hear from me i'll be in Nicaragua!!!! :)

Before we set off

This is our first blog - We hope you can come to our bon-voyage open house on the 16th October in Derby!

12pm - 10pm drop in anytime and join us for drinks n nibbles


Watch this space :)