El Toro Venado and San Jeronimo

As I mentioned in my last post, Masaya is famed for being the home of Nicaraguan folklore.  In Monimbó on the third Sunday in November they celebrate the festival of “El Toro Venado”.  The day started in next door’s garden, where one of the lads was 30ft up a tree cutting down coconuts to decorate their float for the parade...  It is tradition that families enter into the parade every year and have a special name – next door are known as the conejos (rabbits). From what I can tell, the parade is an opportunity for people to express their views about current issues, mock politicians and for the men – go out in drag!  The butt of most jokes was Costa Rica (currently in a heated border dispute with Nicaragua and tensions are running high!)... here are some highlights from the parade....

Cutting down coconuts....

The conejos            

3 for the price of 1 on Costa Rican (wo)men 

Later that day we went to see some of the festivities of San Jeronimo – the patron saint of Masaya.  Officially this festival lasts just 8 days (beginning September 30^th), but writing at the end of November, I’m still being kept awake by marching bands and fireworks until the early hours!  This festival involves dancing, more drag queens, fireworks and marimbas.  I went along with D.D’s grandson to see one of his friends dancing – Christian (pictured below), the rather buxom brunette with fan!  People invite groups to perform traditional dances in their homes and it seems that the whole neighbourhood then turns up to watch.  Apparently the dance groups are mostly men... The dress is colonial and the masks are typical of the festivals here in Masaya.  The costumes are very heavy and they also wear heels – apparently Christian was dancing for 12 hours on Sunday!

This is Masaya

I think I’ve just about found my feet here , so it’s about time that I tell you a bit about Masaya.  It is known as the “cradle of Nicaraguan folklore” and I’m told that the 1979 revolution also started right here.  The barrio that I’m living in, Monimbó, is famed for its resistance to the dictator’s (Somoza) brutal national guard during the insurrection – locals (including my host family) rose up against the military.  As I get to know the family better, I’m learning more about their painful experience during this time.  Doña Dorcas took me into the garden the other night to show me where she used to hide weapons for the Sandinistas, also sharing stories of how she hid guerrilla fighters!   This is a view from Coyotepe, an old fortress which looks over Masaya, used for detaining (and torturing) political prisoners during the Somoza dictatorship and by the Sandinistas following the revolution.  I went on a tour and heard about the grisly history of this place – many atrocities were committed…

Street view in Monimbó ... About 100 metres from here is the “road on the way to the lagoon”, where I’m staying :)

Not much of the colonial architecture remains in Masaya – the war and the fact that the  city experiences violent tectonic activity at times does not help!  This is the iglesia de San Jerónimo.  This building has been repaired many times…

El parque central, la paroquia

Live, upside down chickens!  Their pick up has a flat and has stopped in the middleof the main street of Masaya!

And finally, for the Geoggers following this blog.  Here is Loughborough bear enjoying the view over the city of Masaya.  Unfortunately his hat is a little worse for wear (he travelled economy in my rucksack), but as you can see, it is still shading him from strong afternoon sun. ..Any suggestions for a name for him are most welcome!

Notes from the field...

As you probably already know, the main reason for us being here is that I (Dani) am researching  for my PhD… The project is about energy poverty in rural Central America and how solar power is being implemented to provide sustainable access to modern energy services (apologies Geographers, you’ve heard this a hundred times!)  The study involves getting to know families that have solar panels, those who don’t and the various organisations  involved in implementing the solar technology…. I’m working with a local NGO called ADIC (Asociación para el Desarrollo Integral Comunitario) and so far have managed to head out on a few visits, speaking to families that have received panels.  It is fascinating to hear their stories!  One family I met the other day hadn’t had electricity for 20 years, and during this time relied completely on candles and oil lamps for light and a car battery for the radio at the weekends.  Can you imagine?  The only issue is that the roads here are a bit awful at the moment due to a particularly heavy rainy season (it’s supposed to finish in November), so for now the best way to get around is by moto.  Picture me perched precariously on the back of a motorbike, clinging on for dear life, whilst Norman (my contact at ADIC) dodges pot holes, puddles, children and various farm animals casually resting in the middle of the road.  Not sure what my department would say (H&S wise), but so far so good.  Here is a picture from Don Enrique and Doña Rosa’s house, I visited this week.  This panel provides them with enough power for three lightbulbs at night and during the day, a few hours of T.V or radio.

The chancho and the garden

Here is a pic of "Juanito" the pig next door who keeps me awake all night… this is especially for you Joanna!

Doña Dorcas told me I´d better take a picture, as poor Juanito is going to be eaten soon!

And whilst I´m here…. I may as well show you some lovely pics from the garden – it´s like a jungle!

 

Clean clothes…

This is me learning how to wash clothes the traditional way. I had a pile of clothes that would perhaps be half a load in the washing machine…. it took me a whole afternoon to wash them by hand! Not many families can afford to buy a washing machine, or the electricity to run it if they could…. Many women wash clothes for a living here…I’m told that the good ones can get through 100 items in a morning! They have much stronger arms than I do….

Another lagoon and meet the family…..

This is another laguna– "la laguna de apoyo" and to the right, the volcán Mombacho, which I´m assured is dormant! This photo is taken from a mirador in Catarina which is one of the "pueblos blancos" just outside of Masaya. This is a volcanic crater lake (apparently 200m deep and 200 centuries old) that you can swim in…it is said to have the cleanest and deepest water in Nicaragua, with supposed healing powers. There are little cabañas spread around steep edges of the crater… I think we will spending many weekends here :)
The view, as you can see, is absolutely breathtaking!

This is a photo of some of my host family by the lagoon – l-r, the wonderful Doña (Mrs) Dorcas, her great-grandaughter Alba Thais and her grandson, Isaac. D.D is amazing! A real character with lots of stories… everyday she makes me eggs for breakfast :) D.D is coming home with us next year…

The Lagoon

In my last post I talked about the street name being “on the way to the lagoon” – well this is the lagoon! And behind it is the Volcan Santiago... it is just a 10 minute walk from the house....  Up until about 5 years ago the lagoon was used by Masayans for swimming and washing clothes.....but today it is rarely used because the water is so polluted... Someone told me that they estimate there is a layer 3-4m thick of plastic in the water! 

Apparently a large serpent lives in the lagoon – according to local folklore, the day that it is killed or dies, all of the water will disappear.  Another famous story describes how the Spanish conquistadores descended into this volcano in their search for gold!